What do I do now?

[Stresst]

choose from a reputable manufacturer, then size, then get the best airflow the offer in that size. Unless you can seal the gaps from the mounting surface of fan and the radiators you may have to just put in on the condenser along the tranny exchanger or put one on each unit for maximum airflow but I would not recommend doing a twofer because if the tranny fluid drops below a certain temperature it effects shifting operations in an attempt to heat it up again. I would just switch to a total efan setup at that point. Tie a power relay to be triggered by the a/c clutch circuit. If it will help at all one on the condenser would be just fine. Could always add more circuitry to have it as a back up cooling fan for non a/c use later.

So let me ask you something, you dont think there is nothing else wrong with my a/c like the fron evaporator or compressor rather then the new type of freon? Over the past few years we had days that reached over 100+ degrees and I dont ever remember having a/c issues.

I have no problem spending cash on an electric fan (or anything else for that matter) as long as it will enhance the a/c.

Another thing being the fan clutch can be had for under 65 bucks I dont think it can hurt to change it as well. I dont think its ever been replaced and having nearly 130K I would assume its not as effiecient as a new one. What do you think?

BTW sorry for 100 questions, but this truck is eating me alive. Last summer the fuel pump went (again) and my front tires were wearing uneven. I had to replace sway bar bushings, one link, 2 idler arms, 2 ball joints, tie rod ends as well as replacing shocks all around. A few months ago another 800.00+ on Bridgestone Dueller Revo A/T 2's tires. All this is in addition to the radiator, battery that's recently been replaced. I know its getting old but how much can one person spend within 12 months.

Oh yeah did I mention I spent 1500.00 on this effin a/c

 

[SunlitComet]

So remind me again the compressor and evaporator are the only two parts that have not been replaced? If so I may have some charts to help with diagnosis. Year again please.

If you are up for a fan clutch then go ahead. I personally don't like doing a part replacement unless the part can be definitively determined to be at fault.

Mine cost me $1600 to buy and everything in my signature line plus more has totaled at least $4000. Still need tires, front suspension fix, t-case internal repair, leak repairs ,a/c valve core leak repair, new front seat covering and just recently lost compression in #4&6. So yeah it can get expensive and I just got mine in October and didn't start work until Jan.

 

[Stresst]

Yes, you are correct. The only two items which have need been replaced are the front evaporator and compressor in my 2000 Escalade.

As far as the fan clutch goes, I am not made of money and like you dont like changing things that are not broke. But being I have nearly 130K on the clock and in the last 7 years I never changed the fan clutch I would think its shot or close to it. For 62.50 shipped its a cheap insurance policy either way, it sure cannot hurt.

 

[SunlitComet]

did you have the evaporator flushed at all and have you ever had any leak sealant dumped in your system?

 

[Stresst]

did you have the evaporator flushed at all and have you ever had any leak sealant dumped in your system?

Not that I know of. How would you flush it? I would hope the shop did when they replaced the other 90% of comppnents.

I bought two cans of the freon with a hose. I believe one can had dye in it while the other can had some type of stop leak in it. Why do you ask?

I just seen on tv an AAMCO commercial, there offering free a/c checks. Im wondering if I should give them a try??? Im hoping they know what there talking about!

 

[SunlitComet]

As long as shops don't take any of your freon then go ahead. When flushing, a canister with a flushing chemical is forced under pressure to remove contaminants and then it is blown with dry air or preferably nitrogen. It is possible that sealants can build up and start to clog the orifice hole. If you used it after the repairs then it is a possibility.

 

[Stresst]

As long as shops don't take any of your freon then go ahead. When flushing, a canister with a flushing chemical is forced under pressure to remove contaminants and then it is blown with dry air or preferably nitrogen. It is possible that sealants can build up and start to clog the orifice hole. If you used it after the repairs then it is a possibility.

What do you mean by take my freon?
I used it before the repairs, we also replaced the orifice tube. Do you think the evaporator is the culprit?

Angelo

 

[taylorjm]

Personally, I'm with you. Don't replace anything unless you know for sure it's broke. In my opinion, it's not the evaporator. Adding/changing your fan may help, but it's compensating for a problem elsewhere. So if it's 80 degrees outside, the a/c blows 40 degrees, but when it goes over 80, does the a/c start to get warmer? As in, if it's 90 degrees out, does the a/c blow at 50? If it's 100 out, does the a/c blow 60, etc, or does it just stop working once the temp hits 80 degrees out?

 

[Stresst]

Personally, I'm with you. Don't replace anything unless you know for sure it's broke. In my opinion, it's not the evaporator. Adding/changing your fan may help, but it's compensating for a problem elsewhere. So if it's 80 degrees outside, the a/c blows 40 degrees, but when it goes over 80, does the a/c start to get warmer? As in, if it's 90 degrees out, does the a/c blow at 50? If it's 100 out, does the a/c blow 60, etc, or does it just stop working once the temp hits 80 degrees out?

No-one likes replacing parts if its not broke but im running out of options. Pep boys wanted 179.99 for the fan clutch (plus tax) I got it on ebay for 62.50 shipped so I said what the eff! Let me try it, sure cant hurt.

I bought one of those cheapo thermostat's at pep boys, looks like the one you stick in the turkey at thanksgiving, LOL. Anytime its under 80 degrees outside my a/c blows around 40 degrees, sometimes dips down into the green at around 38 degrees when im flying on the highway.

When the temperature goes above say 85 (give or take) it will blow around 65degreed when I start moving it only goes down to about 60 but a little traffic and im about 65-70 degrees. Mind you I live in NYC traffic is a common occurance to say the least. If I get on the highway when its super hot its barely comfortable at 60 degrees. The a/c is working but its just not blowing cold enough!

This truck has been in my family for years the a/c never was an issue!

 

[taylorjm]

So it's a pretty drastic jump in a/c temps when the outside temp may just go up to 85ish. See, that tells me it's something like the low pressure switch on the a/c, or even something with the controls or actuator doors. If the a/c works at 80 degrees out, but not at 85-90, I don't think it's the fan or evaporator. Something is telling the a/c to stop working correctly when the outside temp is warmer. Just for kicks, have you tried changing the vent when it's 85+ out and see what happens? Meaning, turn on the a/c and switch the vent to defrost, or to your feet, or anything and see if it changes anything? Do you have rear a/c? How is that affected?