2007 Yukon Denali Build (This got outta hand really quick...)

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67RS427

67RS427

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Next up is a coat of red Por15 paint on the block and slapping on the oil pan. As you can see I machined off the stock pulley on a bridge port and the new 2.5" WeaponX pulley will go on after I do some porting on the snout and blower intake runners.
 

Big Mama

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Can’t wait to see what happens. Glad your head is ok. If they only made that color 2 years some dealer in Virginia ordered half of them. A guy at work has an Avalanche that color and the one next to mine on the lot was too. Both are 07 so you might be right. The wheel color on those is tricky but black sounds great. Good luck.
 

Tonyrodz

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Things are moving along... Out with the old, in goes the new 402" beast. Wasn't planning on pulling the transmission but my crankshaft was so out of balance from the worn bearings that it chewed up my reman convertor and bell housing of the transmission. Luckily I have this awesome Circle D Triple Disc convertor.

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What's the difference between a reg tc to a triple disc tc?
 

Tonyrodz

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Triple disc is like a transmission clutch pack. It has 3 clutches and with 3 vs 1 it can be locked up for WOT shifts.
Nice. On mine I just have a 3000 stall reg tc. Wish I would've known about it. Can't wait til you post up some vids of the finished rig. Awesome build:waytogo:.
 

swathdiver

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Am I understanding right that your current engine is a 6.2 and your putting in a Gen III 6.0 in your 2007 Denali with 823 heads? What do you figure a 402 will make with natural induction? Pretty cool build btw!
 
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67RS427

67RS427

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About $700 Lol. The holding power is much higher. This is a cool build. What type of transmission is this being bolted to?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

Your right about the cost lol, it sure wasn't cheap but I needed the extra clamping force with this much power. It's the 6L80e that came with the truck but I built it up a bit. I'm still worried about locked WOT shifts breaking the input shaft at this power level because I didn't use a 300m input. I might regret it or just not lock up on shifts since this is my daily driven street truck.

Am I understanding right that your current engine is a 6.2 and your putting in a Gen III 6.0 in your 2007 Denali with 823 heads? What do you figure a 402 will make with natural induction? Pretty cool build btw!

Yes, your correct. Might seem stupid to pull the Aluminum block and replace it with an old iron block but the 6.2L Aluminum blocks can get bore distortion pretty easy, even in stock configuration like mine was after 150k miles. I didn't want to deal with excessive oil consumption because that's why I pulled the motor to start. Also you can only go .010-.030 over on the Aluminum which doesn't leave room for repair should something happen. I can go to 416" on the LQ9 if needed. The iron block also allows me to keep the bore size down to 4.005" vs 4.070" (better for knock retard) and add the 4" stroke to bring the cubes up. I am using my L92 heads on the Gen III which a lot of people already do. As far as power goes for N/A, general rule of thumb is at least 1hp per cube across the RPM range. So figure an N/A 6.2L vs a 402" stroker will get you 24hp at least, even more in a blower application but then you have a huge motor and no blower capacity. This is where Cam selection becomes very important and it's why I went with the BTR Stage 3 cam with 120 degrees of LSA. You'll get excessive back pressure if you have incorrect overlap.

I should be making 750-800hp at the crank with my 2.5" upper and 5% overdrive damper @ around 14psi...
 
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swathdiver

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Right, one thing I learned through reading was that the 6.2 bored and stroked was not conducive to longevity especially supercharged or turbocharged. The 6.0 blocks are more durable for what you're doing.

Was there a particular reason you went with the Gen III versus Gen IV 6.0 block? Do you plan to run this down the track when you're done? Thanks for the info.

I think it would be neat to install Darton Wet Sleeves in my 5.3 with a 4" crank and make a 402 out of it as well. Doesn't make economical sense but would be fun to build nonetheless.
 
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67RS427

67RS427

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Right, one thing I learned through reading was that the 6.2 bored and stroked was not conducive to longevity especially supercharged or turbocharged. The 6.0 blocks are more durable for what you're doing.

Was there a particular reason you went with the Gen III versus Gen IV 6.0 block? Do you plan to run this down the track when you're done? Thanks for the info.

I think it would be neat to install Darton Wet Sleeves in my 5.3 with a 4" crank and make a 402 out of it as well. Doesn't make economical sense but would be fun to build nonetheless.

Your absolutely right on the longevity part, that's why I went iron. I don't want to be rebuilding this again because the bore distortion and oil consumption.

I picked Gen III because I had a friend with one sitting around and it doesn't have any of the DOD/AFM provisions that I don't want anyway. Everything is backwards compatible and I even deleted the rear cam sensor and used a Gen IV front cover. Only difference is the knock sensor locations which isn't a big deal. I deleted the valley knock sensors and will be using Gen IV ones in the side of the block. No wiring has to change at all...

This will certainly get ran down the track this summer but it's a street truck 100%. I plan to tune on a dyno this time so I'll have some numbers from that as well... Expect a mid to high 11 qtr or so? My brother just bought a new Audi RS5 so my goal is to beat his $85k car to 60 (3.7sec) and 12sec qtr. Shouldn't be a problem lol
 

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