Ball Joints and Sway Bar links

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I really appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone. I'm shopping RA and Amazon - I see Moog has a RK (cheaper) and a CK series LCA assembly. I didn't immediately see a GM genuine part that wasn't for a 4WD. Maybe I'm missing something?..

This is what I have in the cart with Amazon
MOOG RK620888 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly https://a.co/d/hp98RvZ
Make sure your existing control arms are steel and not aluminum. Some models came with aluminum ones and those are available from the aftermarket also.
 

OR VietVet

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I really appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone. I'm shopping RA and Amazon - I see Moog has a RK (cheaper) and a CK series LCA assembly. I didn't immediately see a GM genuine part that wasn't for a 4WD. Maybe I'm missing something?..

This is what I have in the cart with Amazon
MOOG RK620888 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly https://a.co/d/hp98RvZ

Consensus has been to avoid the cheaper Moog control arms.
 

OR VietVet

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Consensus has been to avoid the cheaper Moog control arms.
Yea, me too but he was already leaning that way so I supplied the links. I found the AC Delco right lower arm but could not find or missed the left lower arm in the list.
 
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MarshMarlowe

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Consensus has been to avoid the cheaper Moog control arms.
Thanks for that. I was under the impression that all things MOOG were the best. I'll opt for the CK series if I go with MOOG LCAs

I did find these Genuine GM LCAs here
 
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I've noticed that where the lower strut mounts to the lower control arm is different on all these newer ones.

That area is recessed on the new arms while not recessed on my OE arms.

Guessing that the newer parts is an updated design and hope it doesn't mess with the ride height.
 

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Moog was considered to sell quality parts some time ago, but their overall quality has slipped in recent years, so one has to be more careful when considering Moog parts these days.

I've used GMPartsDirect.com, and they are fine. Do NOT use GMPartsGiant.com, ever.

OP: We've given you lots of advice, and now the decision is yours. Let us know what you decide.
 

89Suburban

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Thanks for that. I was under the impression that all things MOOG were the best. I'll opt for the CK series if I go with MOOG LCAs

I did find these Genuine GM LCAs here


Here is a cheat video to replace the lower arms. Only thing this guy failed to point out is to break the stud loose off the knuckle before unbolting the lower arm bolts from the frame. I unbolted the arms first like he did and I had a HELL of a time trying to break the stud loose with the arm flopping around. And being on the ground instead of a high lift you can't get a good swing on the hammer. Loosen the nut on the stud to leave a gap but don't remove it so it catches it from falling and bang it loose.


 

iamdub

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Thanks for that. I was under the impression that all things MOOG were the best. I'll opt for the CK series if I go with MOOG LCAs

I did find these Genuine GM LCAs here

NO to the RK Series!

Speaking of, I bought some AC Delco Professional (now known as "Gold") upper and lower arms. They were in AC Delco boxes, etc. They're re-boxed Moog CK Series. So, AC Delco decided that the CK Series was adequate to be used in their "good" aftermarket line. I'd bet that the RK Series would be in the AC Delco Advantage (now "Silver") boxes. Still, if you can find and afford some GM Genuine/AC Delco OE arms, they would be your best bet. I forget who, but someone recently bought some and the price was much higher than it was not so long ago.
 
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MarshMarlowe

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Thanks again everyone. I will go with Genuine GM where I can find them, or CK series MOOG

Probably a silly question at this point, but with almost 100k on the clock, and needing to remove the struts to remove the LCAs, should I go with new struts also? The Monroes seem to get good reviews...

Also - I remember a shop telling me in the past that there was a worn tie rod, but they did not specify inner or outer. I'll probably need to replace those too... Hoping it's not an inner tie rod that's worn

Edit: confirmed it is an inner tie rod that had failed. Any idea on what size wrench / inner tie rod removal tool?
 
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