Ball Joints and Sway Bar links

[iamdub]

Thanks again everyone. I will go with Genuine GM where I can find them, or CK series MOOG

Probably a silly question at this point, but with almost 100k on the clock, and needing to remove the struts to remove the LCAs, should I go with new struts also? The Monroes seem to get good reviews...

Also - I remember a shop telling me in the past that there was a worn tie rod, but they did not specify inner or outer. I'll probably need to replace those too... Hoping it's not an inner tie rod that's worn

Edit: confirmed it is an inner tie rod that had failed. Any idea on what size wrench / inner tie rod removal tool?

The strut doesn't need to be removed to replace any of the control arms. Just remove the bottom two bolts.

But, if you wanna replace it all, now would be a good time.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The strut doesn't need to be removed to replace any of the control arms. Just remove the bottom two bolts.

But, if you wanna replace it all, now would be a good time.

Doesn't the strut/spring get in the way when removing the upper control arm bolts? I know my bolts have the heads on the inside, towards the struts.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Here is a cheat video to replace the lower arms. Only thing this guy failed to point out is to break the stud loose off the knuckle before unbolting the lower arm bolts from the frame. I unbolted the arms first like he did and I had a HELL of a time trying to break the stud loose with the arm flopping around. And being on the ground instead of a high lift you can't get a good swing on the hammer. Loosen the nut on the stud to leave a gap but don't remove it so it catches it from falling and bang it loose.

I have a question about the CV shafts. When they're unbolted from the differential end, is there fluid or a seal there?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Thanks again everyone. I will go with Genuine GM where I can find them, or CK series MOOG

Probably a silly question at this point, but with almost 100k on the clock, and needing to remove the struts to remove the LCAs, should I go with new struts also? The Monroes seem to get good reviews...

Also - I remember a shop telling me in the past that there was a worn tie rod, but they did not specify inner or outer. I'll probably need to replace those too... Hoping it's not an inner tie rod that's worn

Edit: confirmed it is an inner tie rod that had failed. Any idea on what size wrench / inner tie rod removal tool?

Inner tie rod takes a 40mm or adjustable wrench. Turn the wheel towards the side your working on to get it to stick out more so you have room to get a wrench on it.

 

[Geotrash]

I have a question about the CV shafts. When they're unbolted from the differential end, is there fluid or a seal there?

Nope.

 

[Geotrash]

I did my front suspension on the 2007 about 30K miles ago and replaced everything but the hubs and magride shocks. I was under there this evening preparing for a steering rack replacement and noticed that the lower ball joint on the pax side and the outer tie rod on the driver's side both have torn dust boots and are leaking grease. Sigh. The control arm and ball joint are Moog's top line, but the tie rod was a "Driveworks" from Advanced Auto because they only had one Moog at the time. I'm a little annoyed to have to replace the parts at this time, but thankfully I do have my receipt and they're both lifetime warranty. They only lasted 3.5 years. Disappointing - especially for the Moog part.

 

[iamdub]

Doesn't the strut/spring get in the way when removing the upper control arm bolts? I know my bolts have the heads on the inside, towards the struts.

I've always had the bolts slip through the gap between the coils. Maybe some springs are clocked differently, like between the trucks and SUVs? Regardless, if it does hit, it's only three nuts to lower (if only a little clearance is needed) or remove the strut. So it's not worth fighting.

 

[89Suburban]

Doesn't the strut/spring get in the way when removing the upper control arm bolts? I know my bolts have the heads on the inside, towards the struts.

I've always had the bolts slip through the gap between the coils. Maybe some springs are clocked differently, like between the trucks and SUVs? Regardless, if it does hit, it's only three nuts to lower (if only a little clearance is needed) or remove the strut. So it's not worth fighting.

PITA trying to get those bolts in. I use a magnet to hold the bolt and try to push it in with a pry bar or something. Not much room to get my big ******** hands in there and try to line the holes up and get the bolts started.

 

[Trey Hardy]

KRYPTONITE PRODUCTS

KRYPTONITE STEERING AND SUSPENSION PRODUCTS

kryptoniteproducts.com

I’ve had great luck with my kryptonite tie rods ball joint and wheel bearings I still got to get there heavy duty sway bar links I order from Rudy’s diesel cause I live in Nc it only takes a day or two to get to my door and it all has a lifetime warranty

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Can anyone clarify whether this is the right lower control arm for my 2012 LS 2WD Tahoe? The 4WD in the description is giving me pause

More Information for GM GENUINE 20869202

www.rockauto.com