Sam Harris
Supporting Member
That’s crazy it made such a difference. I mean placement is fairly key in general, usually much less so with low frequencies, but it sounds like it was an on / off switch in your scenario.
Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
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iamdub
Full Access Member
It nearly was. It was that abrupt. I turned the sub on and off through the HU's EQ and it responded accordingly with its movement, but made almost no discernible difference in sound over the factory Bose sub. Maybe that's what it was- the Bose sub was like having active noise cancellation and the wavelengths just conflicted due to positioning. I flipped the sub phase and it made very little difference.
I went up to the Community Center parking lot last night and messed with it some more. It's beating low, loud and clean but the box is too weak for the sub. It's all 1/2" MDF and rattles at some points. I really just bought the box ($20 used, but in excellent shape off Marketplace) to hold the sub during break-in in my living room. I wanna try combining downfire and semi-horn style to build off of what the Tahoe Twin has since his is really efficient. I'm thinking just wrap the existing box, including the baffle, with another later of 1/2" MDF but with "skirts" to act as risers to elevate the face. This would yield a laminated 1" thick shell which would be more than solid enough. Angle what would be the floor so it has a horn effect. I'll use wood screws only so I can easily try it with and without the horn, etc. Then either build a new one based off my results to exact specs or keep it as-is depending on performance. I'll probably rebuild eventually since I want it to have an angled back to fit the rear of the seat.
I'm bummed that it won't work between the seats. I really wanted a sub box console setup to utilize that otherwise useless space and keep my full rear cargo capacity. I will try it again with the modified box. Maybe having that design with the exit aimed rearward will make a difference.
Sound waves can be tricky!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Braided fuel hose was delivered a couple days ago and the OE hose, after being passed around the local USPS hub for two days, was delivered today:
It has a 4.5" offset for anyone taking notes.
I kinda mocked up the braided hose last night to try to get an idea. Basically, it's gonna come down to squeezing the sensor under the engine cover or mounting it out to the side. I wanna do what the factory would've done, so I didn't go any further until I had the short OE fuel hose in hand.
I have about half a tank of 93 octane E10 (as advertised). I gotta run out for some groceries which will be about a 30 mile round trip, so I'll take note of what the calculated alcohol content is. I'll take a physical sample to know for sure what it is, then install the sensor and change it accordingly in the tune.
It has a 4.5" offset for anyone taking notes.
I kinda mocked up the braided hose last night to try to get an idea. Basically, it's gonna come down to squeezing the sensor under the engine cover or mounting it out to the side. I wanna do what the factory would've done, so I didn't go any further until I had the short OE fuel hose in hand.
I have about half a tank of 93 octane E10 (as advertised). I gotta run out for some groceries which will be about a 30 mile round trip, so I'll take note of what the calculated alcohol content is. I'll take a physical sample to know for sure what it is, then install the sensor and change it accordingly in the tune.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Went to mock up the sensor and decide on which hose I wanted to use. I tried to use the OE K2XX one, but coudn't come up with a clean-looking location for the sensor. Even at 4.5", the offset was still too far and the sensor would interfere with the engine cover. I could probably slice the hose to remove one of the fittings, trim the hose much shorter and press the fitting in to make it about a 2" offset. But then the factory flex line that comes up above the bell housing would be kinda pressed against the firewall. A solution for this might be as simple as tweaking the hard line or the bracket on the top of the bell housing. I didn't make it any further.
I twisted the braided hose in a tight coil to get a feel for the flexibility. I would liked to have heated it a little, coiled it and let it cool to form it. But, once I clipped it on the sensor, I wasn't gonna be able to get it off with the style of disconnect tool I have:
So, long hose it is. I found that by keeping that one loop in it, the factory flex hose clipped on and it sat naturally, as-is, with no stress on anything. The sensor weighs almost nothing and is just kinda floating there, supported by the stiffness of the hoses. The 90° end of the braided hose is on the fuel rail and its arch is lightly resting on that rib on the manifold. The factory flex hose fitting was lightly resting on the EVAP purge line, which I cushioned with a piece of 1/2" heater hose. The harness adapter I made to plug to the VLOM plug isn't contacting anything, either. I pressurized the system and moved everything around and saw no indication of leaking:
With the cover on, the harness comes out of the upper opening at the back. The factory hose clears the lower step of the opening:
Looking under the cover with it raised a little off the supports, but rear hooked into place, you can see the harness, sensor and braided hose all have plenty of clearance. That one bottom point is barely contacting the fitting on the factory hose. It might pivot off of it when the front is snapped down into place. Either way, it's not a problem. I'll probably trim it, anyway:
So, my little oversight in clipping the fuel lines on the sensor forced me to just roll with it and everything fell into place. It's not "factory", like I was aiming for, but it seems to be perfectly functional and safe.
I took my fuel sample and will be headed to get groceries soon. I'll monitor the calculated alcohol content for what I hope will be its last time doing so. I'll upload the updated tune when I get back home. I'm changing it to the physical sensor as well as a small tweak to the TCC settings.
I twisted the braided hose in a tight coil to get a feel for the flexibility. I would liked to have heated it a little, coiled it and let it cool to form it. But, once I clipped it on the sensor, I wasn't gonna be able to get it off with the style of disconnect tool I have:
So, long hose it is. I found that by keeping that one loop in it, the factory flex hose clipped on and it sat naturally, as-is, with no stress on anything. The sensor weighs almost nothing and is just kinda floating there, supported by the stiffness of the hoses. The 90° end of the braided hose is on the fuel rail and its arch is lightly resting on that rib on the manifold. The factory flex hose fitting was lightly resting on the EVAP purge line, which I cushioned with a piece of 1/2" heater hose. The harness adapter I made to plug to the VLOM plug isn't contacting anything, either. I pressurized the system and moved everything around and saw no indication of leaking:
With the cover on, the harness comes out of the upper opening at the back. The factory hose clears the lower step of the opening:
Looking under the cover with it raised a little off the supports, but rear hooked into place, you can see the harness, sensor and braided hose all have plenty of clearance. That one bottom point is barely contacting the fitting on the factory hose. It might pivot off of it when the front is snapped down into place. Either way, it's not a problem. I'll probably trim it, anyway:
So, my little oversight in clipping the fuel lines on the sensor forced me to just roll with it and everything fell into place. It's not "factory", like I was aiming for, but it seems to be perfectly functional and safe.
I took my fuel sample and will be headed to get groceries soon. I'll monitor the calculated alcohol content for what I hope will be its last time doing so. I'll upload the updated tune when I get back home. I'm changing it to the physical sensor as well as a small tweak to the TCC settings.
randeez
Full Access Member
Hey yea, don't clip the oe quick connects to the sensor it's a mfer to get them back off
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iamdub
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randeez
Full Access Member
Haven't found one that works yet, I grabbed a split one from lisle still wasn't worth a shit
Or maybe it does..last time I had to pull the one on ctsv before I brought to dealerahip...I think I ordered that one and didn't come I time. Had to pick it off with a couple small screwdrivers
Haven't found one that works yet, I grabbed a split one from lisle still wasn't worth a shit
Or maybe it does..last time I had to pull the one on ctsv before I brought to dealerahip...I think I ordered that one and didn't come I time. Had to pick it off with a couple small screwdrivers
I have yet to find any disconnect tool worth a shit in my experience fwiw. I know I am just a shit bird in here but that’s my .02.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
In the tune, you just switch it from virtual to sensor?
randeez
Full Access Member
the problem with the FF sensor is that the ends are short, with the hose qdc on there there isnt any room to even get the tool in there to work as ****** as it is on an easily accessible fitting
