Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

nothing fancy staging, roll in deep, foot brake, and start spooling lol. i am reluctant to add abunch of mini controllers for boost, 2step, transbrake, etc. I wish I would have just went with a holley dominator when i switched to a 4l80, would have been a nice chunk of $$ towards it and i would have the capability to do everything else i wanted . my fault for not really researching at the time. but if it comes down to having all that is the "only" way to make this thing run consistantly i may still go that way

my track sucks in the staging lanes, unless you're way up front in the line, you're inching up idling for like 10-15 minutes minimum to get a run in. by the time i get up there is a combo of anxious and knowing my IATs are through the roof and i dont want to keep it foot braked for so long. or blowing the tires off and wasting an hour+ of waiting for a shit run.

converter is a circle d 252mm iirc, with the triple disc lock up added...was only 200bux more on the pro series

 

[Rocket Man]

and last but not least!

prob prevented the whole thing from burning down. I had a mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted directly onto the regulator. the other day after going over everything i noticed what i thought was condensation around the regulator and around that area - thought man the fuel must be nice and cool" fast forward to yesterday...popped the hood, still looked like condensation! wtf! it wasnt condensation...wasnt really oily, was clear, gauge was still full of fluid, scratched my head...decided to pull the gauge off anyway.... it was the glycerin from the gauge, the gauge is full of E85 . it had been pushed out, mixed with e85 all the way down the valley cover and was even dripping to the ground at the back of the block, thought a coolant plug was coming out or something. what was coming out of it didnt smell like e85 at all but i assume when all the fluid that was in the gauge was gone it would have been leaking e85. left it off and just plugged the hole in the regulator

Lucky there

 

[Sam Harris]

and last but not least!

prob prevented the whole thing from burning down. I had a mechanical fuel pressure gauge mounted directly onto the regulator. the other day after going over everything i noticed what i thought was condensation around the regulator and around that area - thought man the fuel must be nice and cool" fast forward to yesterday...popped the hood, still looked like condensation! wtf! it wasnt condensation...wasnt really oily, was clear, gauge was still full of fluid, scratched my head...decided to pull the gauge off anyway.... it was the glycerin from the gauge, the gauge is full of E85 . it had been pushed out, mixed with e85 all the way down the valley cover and was even dripping to the ground at the back of the block, thought a coolant plug was coming out or something. what was coming out of it didnt smell like e85 at all but i assume when all the fluid that was in the gauge was gone it would have been leaking e85. left it off and just plugged the hole in the regulator

Whoa! Good thing you found that shit!!

 

[Sam Harris]

What converter did you end up running, what's your staging procedure? Have no doubts you could get that 60' lower without changing anything but staging and how you leave. 330' on point! 100 and 125 is definitely enough mph for 10s, so close!!!

Hell yeah! I know you’re not where you want to be (yet).. but damn, think about where it started! [emoji16][emoji106][emoji631]

 

[randeez]

yep, i've launched it at almost 10psi on the street and it felt a whole lot better. just wanted to take forever to get up there last night. wasnt worth tearing something up just to hold it for so long on a horrible night to see what it would do. cooler weather should be coming in the next month or two and i'll prob start going back then. and just keep trying to get everything else straightened out in the mean time

 

[Rocket Man]

yep, i've launched it at almost 10psi on the street and it felt a whole lot better. just wanted to take forever to get up there last night. wasnt worth tearing something up just to hold it for so long on a horrible night to see what it would do. cooler weather should be coming in the next month or two and i'll prob start going back then. and just keep trying to get everything else straightened out in the mean time

You’ve put so much time and work in it, don’t try to hurry to get things dialed in. I’d hate to see you overlook something and have to start over because you tore it up. I’ve been there myself, back in the day. It’s hard to be patient after so much time.

 

[Chert_Detective]

Agreed. Patience is hard to come by when you've put so much time, energy, and money into something and you want to see results out of it. Especially when it's within reach. Let the air turn around and let'er eat. On your 11.25 pass you were only .030 better in the 60' than I was the other weekend in terrible air but 20mph ahead in the 1/8. 20mph!!! Let it sit, work the bugs out, obviously making enough power for 10s.

It will happen.

Next time you get to the track take your time. I completely understand the frustration of waiting in the lanes and things looking like they're hot. But remember engines like heat, metal likes heat... If you aren't overheating, you're okay. I made my passes last weekend with coolant at 210 and trans was at 160-165 by the time I staged. Only thing different would be your IAT.

But when you stage, stop at the prestige bulb and gather yourself. Stage shallow and baaaaarely roll into the second bulb. Drop it in neutral and while your foot is on the brake rev it up. You'll feel the brake booster use the vacuum to suck the pedal to the floor. When the rpms come back down put it in manual and click it up or drive, whichever way you launch, and get on the gas. Don't worry about the tree. If the converter is tight enough, which it should be on a 252mm for a turbo setup, you'll be able to build enough boost without having to use a 2step or trans brake and sit there cooking the transmission. You don't want it to launch and flash like an NA setup, if you do that then you're rolling and the clocks ticking while you're trying to build boost.

 

[randeez]

thanks for the pep talk

but i mean strickly in the sense that hot air takes longer to compress than cooler air, the long it takes to compress the longer the trans pressure is putting force on the thrust bearing. just got this motor back from tearing up the thrust bearing i'd like to get a few miles out of it before i do it again

 

[Rocket Man]

thanks for the pep talk

but i mean strickly in the sense that hot air takes longer to compress than cooler air, the long it takes to compress the longer the trans pressure is putting force on the thrust bearing. just got this motor back from tearing up the thrust bearing i'd like to get a few miles out of it before i do it again

Yeah that’s not easy to replace. I was researching that awhile back when my trans builder was trying to say mine might be bad so I found out how to roll main bearings in without pulling the crank but never heard if I could do that with the thrust bearing so I was looking at pulling the crank. Good thing my end play measured in spec.

 

[randeez]

Don't worry...i am still having problems

Belt throwing tore up the front seal, kinda sucks but no big deal I had another seal here.

Took off the charge pipes, belts, balancer, went to take the seal out and grabbed it a little too deep. Put a slight knick into the housing, its technically behind the seal but I bent it forward a little...let me just give 'er a few tappy taps so the seal will sit flush
The softest aluminum known to man decided to chip off, it stayed in the cover tho...ordered a new one yadda yadda