07 XL Denali

carrmann said:

yea I understood. They were the first thing I checked, I'll check again though as I did not know about #2. I was referring to the fact that before nothing happened, now the self test at least was happening so I thought I was making progress lol.

There is no fuse 58. I'm looking for other fuses, I will check 2 and 54. Thank you. Already replaced 61 (Automatic level control compressor)

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I looked up the ones for my 2012, so yours could be different looks like as noted 2/54/61, if you have not disconnected the battery ground I would do that as well because if all the fuses and relay is now good then it should make a good handshake with the module/bcm.
if that doesn't work then try scanning the whole system with the tech2 and see if it shows a issue with the level control module

oh ok gotcha. did all of the above. still can control exh valve, no compressor does not turn on other than for self test. I also tried raising/lowering the front and rear to see if it would trigger a adjustment (it didn't).

I did see a code for C0660 'level control exhaust valve circuit short to ground or open circuit'. last test and this ignition both say 'passed' however. I can control it to open/shut with the tech2 scanner and it works.

I'm going to grab another compressor and give that a go in case this new one is bad or wired wrong etc(I've read people getting them bad new out of the box).

Well, picked up a new unit (dorman). Doesn't work at all. No self test, exh valve and compressor don't do anything via tech 2.

carrmann said:

Well, picked up a new unit (dorman). Doesn't work at all. No self test, exh valve and compressor don't do anything via tech 2.

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that's bizzare, i wonder if you just had bad luck and got 2 bad pumps in a row, does it work with a bench test?

Doubeleive said:

that's bizzare, i wonder if you just had bad luck and got 2 bad pumps in a row, does it work with a bench test?

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They both work with 12v applied directly

The original does not

carrmann said:

They both work with 12v applied directly

The original does not

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ya, I don't know maybe check the the harness that connects to the pump and see if it has corrosion or is burnt or anything

How much current do these pumps pull? Use a fairly heavy test light (like a turn signal bulb) to load the circuit (at the connector) to see if it can pass the current and light the light brightly. Might have a bad ground or a compromised wire.

Doubeleive said:

ya, I don't know maybe check the the harness that connects to the pump and see if it has corrosion or is burnt or anything

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connection at the pump looks close to perfect considering 168k miles.

I'm going to try and jump the relay in the next day or two, see if it will stay running while its jumpered so I know its at least not the power wires. Also going to check the chassis module/computer (whatever that is called) to see how it looks.

Fless said:

How much current do these pumps pull? Use a fairly heavy test light (like a turn signal bulb) to load the circuit (at the connector) to see if it can pass the current and light the light brightly. Might have a bad ground or a compromised wire.

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No idea on the current. Thank you, I will try and give that a shot

carrmann said:

connection at the pump looks close to perfect considering 168k miles.

I'm going to try and jump the relay in the next day or two, see if it will stay running while its jumpered so I know its at least not the power wires. Also going to check the chassis module/computer (whatever that is called) to see how it looks.

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there is a level control module also check that. it should be up under the frame in the rear, if you google a little you will see where it is located and what it looks like, should have a wide wire harness, triple row
should look just like this one