Ball Joints and Sway Bar links

[MarshMarlowe]

Well I feel like an idiot

The old oil filter gasket stuck around, and I installed the new filter on top of it

The 'fluid' that sprayed actually came from the oil filter.

Note- fresh oil smells and looks a lot like power steering fluid

Derp

 

[OR VietVet]

I was told by customers, when I ran shops, that oil changes are easy. I always responded back, "Yes they are, if done right". I was shown to always look at that seal when you first take the old filter off. I also always wipe that seal surface, at the engine block, clean so that the lubed new seal has a clean surface to mate up against.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Unplugged the wheel speed sensors to remove the knuckle. Now the stabilitrak and ABS lights are on

Any ideas?

 

[gooffeyguy]

You said you replaced the rear shocks also. I think there's a wire harness/connector near where the upper shock bolt goes on the back side of the frame. This sometimes gets disconnected when removing that shock bolt.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

You said you replaced the rear shocks also. I think there's a wire harness/connector near where the upper shock bolt goes on the back side of the frame. This sometimes gets disconnected when removing that shock bolt.

Thanks. Found another thread about this. I'll have a look

Service Stabilitrak all of a sudden?

This weekend, I was doing some rear suspension work on my '11 Denali. The plan was to replace my rear sway bar bushings, rear sway bar links, and a pair of maXpeedingrods rear shocks. The bushing and links were a breeze. I unplugged the 2 connectors on the shock. I realized my stock struts...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[MarshMarlowe]

You said you replaced the rear shocks also. I think there's a wire harness/connector near where the upper shock bolt goes on the back side of the frame. This sometimes gets disconnected when removing that shock bolt.

Spot on. The drivers side connector was disconnected. Plugged it back in, and no more Stabilitrak or ABS lights on the dash. Big thanks!

 

[swathdiver]

I really appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone. I'm shopping RA and Amazon - I see Moog has a RK (cheaper) and a CK series LCA assembly. I didn't immediately see a GM genuine part that wasn't for a 4WD. Maybe I'm missing something?..

This is what I have in the cart with Amazon
MOOG RK620888 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly https://a.co/d/hp98RvZ

Unless you are selling the car tomorrow, run the other direction from Moog RK Series parts. CK Series is on par with ACDelco Professional but not as good as GM OE.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Unless you are selling the car tomorrow, run the other direction from Moog RK Series parts. CK Series is on par with ACDelco Professional but not as good as GM OE.

I went with Genuine GM Lower Control arms and inner tie rods

I went with MOOG Sway Bar links and Outer Tie Rods

More Information for MOOG ES800223

 

[swathdiver]

I went with Genuine GM Lower Control arms and inner tie rods

I went with MOOG Sway Bar links and Outer Tie Rods

More Information for MOOG ES800223

Curious, why did you go with two different brands of tie rods?

The tie rod bellows are of varying qualities; the GM OE stuff the best and uses the proper clamps to keep the boot waterproof.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Curious, why did you go with two different brands of tie rods?

The tie rod bellows are of varying qualities; the GM OE stuff the best and uses the proper clamps to keep the boot waterproof.

Agreed. I went with GM genuine inner tie rods on both sides for that reason

The GM Genuine Outer Tie Rods on Rock Auto were more expensive than the inner tie rods @ $75ea. I thought that was cost prohibitive with the 'daily driver' Moog outer tie rods @ $25ea. They seem to be of high quality. Since the outer tie rods are an easy remove and replace, I took a chance on the Moogs