Sounds like a wheel bearing.
When it makes the noise is it front or rear of where you sit?
Now you can elimanate half of the vehicle.
Drive the truck down a straight empty piece of road and get up to 45 mph. Then swerve left and then right and back again. If you hear the noise when you turn...
I would be looking at the engine first. Bogging down can have many causes. I'd check for PCM and TCM history codes and if there are none just drive it and see what happens from here on out.
You are getting what status on the lean code? Current? Pending? History?
Does your check engine light come on momentarily when you turn the key to position 2 (ign position where the dash lights up)? If so the bulb itself is good.
Pretty much this. Being a welder yourself I don't need to stress the importance of clean metal around your weld area (clean vs. booger welds). Measure 3 times, cut once. Slide them in place. Tack tackity tack. Weld around.
Yep. Now that you've spent the money on the cats it's time to find out what caused them to deteriorate. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak and the PCM is compensating by adding fuel (high fuel trims) to get the a/f ratio to stoichiometric ratio (14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel). Excessively...
My lube tech actually bought that one and it works pretty well for the price. Launch has really stepped up their game in the diagnostic scanner arena. I have a few scan tools and one is a LAunch Pad 2 ($2000) and I really like it for day to day professional use. I also have a $8000 Snap On...
You need a scan tool that can provide live ABS data (with high sampling rate) but also graph the data. Pull up graphs for all 4 wheel speed sensors and go for a drive at slow speed. Look for dropouts of voltage on one or more of the sensors.
Find out which sensor(s) it is and replace it...
A tech I worked with broke an alternator mounting bracket bolt off On an Audi head and proceeded to drill and tap as you did and ended up with a broken tap also. Being this was a 2012 A6, we really didn't want to have to pull the heads and the tech looked like he was about to quit his job after...
I know the damage is already done because there is no way you're gonna get the remains of that super hardened tap out of there but for next time. Put some anti-sieze on the tap. Turn it in a few turns and then back it out even if it is still going smooth. You need to clean the metal shavings...
What do you need a "nice NEW oil drain pan" for. Most of the time it loses half a soda can out of the lines if you do a trans swap and he's only doing one. ? You do understand that changing trans lines is akin to changing an oil filter right? That is that the oil drained is what is already...
If this helps you Eric:
The one more forward towards the radiator goes on the most passenger side of the heater core.
It really doesn't matter though. You can route them either way. More than likely there is air in the system via a leak and not enough coolant is flowing through the heater...
The oil leak could be causing issues with the crankshaft position sensor wiring and/or connector. Clean and thoroghly inspect that are of the wiring for breaks/loss of insulation/ etc. Clean out the connector and make sure the terminals in the connector are secure and do not back out when you...
Follow the trail upwards. Look all arounds the engine to find where it is dripping off of the engine to land on the skidplate. Follow that trail until it stops.
Could be water pump. Could be intake gaskets, Could be a few other things. Follow the trail and post where it seems to lead.
Look at the weep hole. If there is any greenish/orangeish crud around it, Your pump has been leaking. Replace it. Same goes for the water pump gasket. Check the perimiter of the water pump for the same residue. This residue is what is left over when the coolant burns off. If there is no...
Thinking you or he meant intake manifold gaskets. No coolant flows through the exhaust manifold gaskets.
Replace your coolant reservoir cap and see if you have any more leaks.
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